East of the Han River, a former factory district holds Seoul's sharpest creative edge. Walk it with someone who knows why the old workshops still matter.
The real answer depends on how you travel, not how many sights you want to tick off. Here is what each trip length actually gives you.
The old quarter north of the river holds some of Seoul's most beautiful cafes, from hanok teahouses to serious roasters. Ten places we return to, in one slow walk.
A private day at the world's most guarded border, ending at a table with someone who once lived on the other side.